Lisong Wild Hot Springs, Taitung
The east coast has faced a tough time recently, with earthquakes and typhoons causing devastating landslides and deterring many tourists. The damage in Taroko will take years to repair, and rebuilding confidence in the area will take even longer.
Now might be the perfect time to visit. The local economy needs visitors, and as long as you check the weather forecasts and avoid going during or after heavy rain, many sites remain safe to explore. The aftershocks from the large April quake have subsided. While the risk from earthquakes persists, it is unlikely to be any higher than it was pre-April by now.
One must-see spot is Lisong Hot Springs, a unique natural site and a fantastic day trip from the Rift Valley. Its remoteness and the steep hike to reach it means that even during the holiday weekend I visited, it was relatively quiet. These days, it is likely to be even more peaceful.
The springs are located in a steep canyon deep in the mountains. If you’re coming from Chishang District in the valley, expect to spend over an hour on a scooter to reach the trailhead. The drive along the Southern Cross-Island Highway is breathtaking, offering stunning alpine views at every turn.
In the East Rift Valley lowlands before heading into the mountains
Although Lisong is marked on Google Maps, the directions can be a bit unreliable. I’ve outlined the route clearly on the Hidden Taiwan map. Google Maps itself seems to be somewhat unreliable lately, especially with route finding. At the end of the short lane from the main road, there is parking for a few scooters and a couple of cars. Make sure that if you’re driving, there’s enough space to turn around. If the parking area is full it’s not about a twenty minute walk from the main road.
You can borrow some gloves here for the ropes
The hike downhill is relatively easy. The last few hundred meters require some clambering down steep slopes with ropes, but it’s not very technical. Of course, you’ll need to climb back up this route, so a good level of fitness is necessary as it will be 30 to 45 minutes of relentless uphill.
A first glimpse of the river
The trail leads to a scenic river valley, which soon narrows into a canyon. River tracing shoes and a waterproof bag are advisable, although the river isn’t particularly deep or fast-moving.
Looking upriver towards the spring canyon
Head upriver and into the canyon. If you want to stay dry, stick to the right and navigate onto a rock platform. Use the rope to climb down a short rock face and cross the river to the springs. If you're prepared for river tracing, it’s easier to walk through the river here.
climbing down the rock face
Lisong Hot Springs is an incredible sight. The rocks are stained in various shades of orange, yellow, and green from the minerals in the spring water. The water emerges as a collection of super-hot trickling waterfalls running down the cliff. People have built a few small pools next to the river, but they aren't deep enough to fully submerge in like those at Bayan or Bongbong. They are on the hotter side, but these pools change over time as they are washed away and rebuilt. Reclining and looking up at the bright canyon walls is an amazing experience, well worth the challenging climb.
This visit was done as a long day trip via rental scooters from just outside Taitung. It involved a lot of driving for one day, and we were quite sore by the end. Google Maps tends to underestimate driving times in this area. It’s better to base yourself in Guanshan or Chishang. All sites and routes are listed on the Hidden Taiwan Map, and if you enjoyed this post or others, I’d appreciate a visit to my gallery pages as well.
The weather can turn quickly in the high mountains