Cycling Through the Xinpu Valley to Hsinchu, Relaxed Round Taiwan Trip Part Seven
We pick up where we left off next to the enormous abandoned LCD factory at the head of the Xinpu Valley. As this start point isn't connected by rail it's best to combine this section with the Daxi and Shimen route the previous post. Head onto Section 3 Longxin Road and enjoy a fast and fun downhill section into the valley. The first section of this road is really enjoyable, passing hamlets and rice fields. I recommend leaving the main road at times and picking a route next to the river or on the quieter road on the opposite bank. The main road is not particularly busy though. If you do follow the river paths make sure to look ahead on Google Maps as a couple of them lead to dead ends.
Two different seasons in the Xinpu Valley
On Longxin Road
Near the Sanshui Community Center Longxin Road passes over a small river. It's been attractively landscaped and it makes for a nice spot to dip you feet in and relax a little. On my second time riding this valley I had some time to kill before my hotel check in opened in Hsinchu. A spot behind a some trees by the water here made for a good place to chill in the shade.
If you do cross the river and follow the 71 road instead of Longxin you'll eventually pass a small settlement called Zhaomen. To some surprise I came across a substantial (for this size village) Japanese era police station. The site was abandoned with a derelict car outside and it was sealed up. I expect it has some interesting relics inside so it may be worth checking it out if you pass it. Next door is another wooden building which I assume was a dormitory for police staff.
Whichever side of the river you're on you'll eventually cross it on the 115 road. I recommend turning left here after you cross and following the quieter riverside road to the outskirts of Xinpu. The main Longxin Road route including this turn off is marked on the Hidden Taiwan Map here to prevent any confusion. When I first cycled this road I passed an interesting business that appeared to be restoring classic cars, however when I passed in 2024 this had either moved or closed.
Watch out on some of the river side paths further up the valley, some will dead-end, and others are still under construction
Eventually you'll reach an intersection where the 118 road (aka Zhongzheng) crosses a bridge into Xinpu. You can turn right and follow this road through the center of town, but there are quieter parallel streets that may be nicer to cycle on. Until 2024 there was the wonderfully overgrown shell of a Japanese era looking villa on the road here but that has now been demolished.
Now demolished
Xinpu's Ancestral Halls
Xinpu is a great little town which is famous for it's ancestral halls. There is more however, including Japanese era historic buildings, an old church, and a quirky looking abandoned theater.
Chaotic mural in Xinpu
Ancestral halls are common across the different peoples of Taiwan. Some look a lot like old sanheyuan but those of wealthier families can be very elaborate. Within each hall is a tablet embodying the spirits of ancestors and at various times of the year family members will come to pay their respects to this. Most of the halls in Xinpu date from the 1860's and 70's and belong to prominent Hakka families who settled in the area.
The Liu Shrine
Many ancestor shrines across Taiwan are private, with a just a few opening their grounds, and even fewer opening their interiors. The shrines in Xinpu are no different so unfortunately most can just be admired from behind their gates. The Liu Shrine on Heping Road can be fully accessed, though for the moment Google suggests only on Sundays (it's been closed each time I've passed). The larger Pan Shrine next door appears to be fully open between Sundays and Thursdays, but it's also been closed when I've passed. Some of the others can be visited by appointment only. In short, if you have an interest in these shrines you may get lucky, but it seems opening times are constantly changing and they will likely be closed if there's a family ritual or festival that day.
The Pan Shrine
Xinpu's Streets
There are three main streets of interest running parallel to each other through the town. Chenggong is furthest uphill and has a mix of simple historic commercial buildings and some shrines behind them on the uphill side. Zhongzheng is the main street. It is busier and more modern, but it still has a few sites of interest along the way such as the church. Heping is a quiet winding residential old street with a few large ancestral shrines.
Of note along Chenggong is the Xinxing Theater. This large abandoned structure was one of a few theaters in the town and was built sometime in the 1950's. Although it is abandoned a nearby business has commandeered it and there is a loud dog guarding the way in. For some great photos of the interior and history check out the post here.
Behind a few old shophouses is the Lin Family Shrine. Like many other ancestral shrines in the town this one is locked and private, but it is in great condition and is worth taking a look if you have an interest in traditional architecture.
At the end of Chenggong, fronting onto Zhongzheng, is the Catholic Church. It's unusual to see large churches in small town Taiwan as Christianity was too niche in many settlements to really justify them. However the religion has a larger presence in these mostly Hakka towns and there's a similar church in Guanxi. It is more modern than it looks, having been built in the 1950's, but it's an attractive fusion of traditional Spanish church design with some modern flair.
Also on Zhongzheng is the Chen Family Shrine, a large and ornate building that's only viewable via appointment. A large 1930's house about halfway along the road was a former mayor's house. It's an impressive wood and stone building and it was operating as a restaurant. When I passed it was covered in scaffolding so I can't comment on what it is used for now.
Heping Road houses the previously mentioned Liu and Pan Halls, the smaller Zhu Shrine, and a fourth shrine that’s locked up just to the south on Lane 35 Zhongzheng. They have all been well-restored and are worth a look, even if it's likely to be just a glance from beyond the walls. Apart from this the street has another old church and a handful of historic residences.
The Zhu Shrine pre-restoration. This is likely finished by now
Xinpu to Zhubei
Leaving Xinpu there are two sites worth visiting on Yimin Road, though if you've seen enough old homes and temples for the day it may be better to trace a course to Zhubei. The Hidden Taiwan Route will take you past these extra sites though. The first site is the Liu Clan Double House. This is a large estate right next to the HSR line which has been wonderfully restored. It's a large complex which looks particularly impressive from above, though unless you can fly I'm not sure how that's relevant. The estate was founded in 1781 but much of the structure dates from expansions during the 19th century.
A pic from above on the information board at the site
It's known as a double hall house as ancestral hall is divided into front and back halls, with the living quarters arranged around the courtyards. Tours of the house will introduce this set-up and how the house adheres to Feng-shui principles. One spot I found interesting was the family cemetery behind the house. Here there is a bizarre postmodern columbarium of a design I've not really seen anywhere else.
Continuing along the road you'll reach the large Yimin Baozhong Temple. While the temple itself looks fairly ordinary if you don't have a special interest in temples it's actually a very important site in Hakka religion and culture. There's a pretty detailed post here if you'd like to understand the significance of this site. It also has some adjacent gardens that are nicely landscaped and a good spot to cool off in or rest.
After Baozhong the ride into Hsinchu is fairly simple. Follow the 14 road into Zhubei and head down Bo'ai Street. This will take you past the train station and along Zhubei's small old town area. The town has little of interest and there's nothing really to stop off for.
An exception among the dull buildings of Zhubei is this old clinic. Below: A more typical older street
At the river turn right and then left onto the large road bridge into Hsinchu. This thankfully has a red marked cycle path on each side. The ride into downtown Hsinchu along Zhonghua Road was not very pleasant with no space given to cycling and a lot of traffic. I wrote an article on Hsinchu's old Beimen Street here and there are lots of points on The Hidden Taiwan Map to check out.
A shophouse on Beimen Street
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